Food made with French techniques and using central Victorian produce is impressing in Heathcote.
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Melbourne-born sommelier Tess Murray and her partner - French-born chef Louis Naepels - opened Chauncy a year ago after searching for a permanent venue to operate.
When they found a heritage building in Heathcote that had been renovated over a decade ago by Ron and Elva Laughton, Tess and Louis teamed up with them.
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"Adam Foster, who is based in Tooborac introduced us to Ron and Elva who were hoping to find front of house and back of house people to go in the building as a restaurant," Tess said.
"We joined up with the last June and it was a really FOH and BOH to go in as a restaurant after 10 years transforming building joined up with last June.
"It was a really delightful thing to do with them. They were super generous and open. They wanted to give back to Heathcote because Heathcote had given them so much."
Chauncy only seats 30 people and is open for lunch from Friday to Monday - a decision that allows Tess and Louis to enjoy Heathcote's lifestyle.
"We started really small with just Louis in the kitchen and minimal help in front of house," Tess said.
"The set menu is a savoury four course menu with options to add cheese or continue with dessert.
"There were zero expectations. We just wanted to do something that put all our experiences together but also have a life where we get to spend time together."
"The support from the local community has been amazing. We had no idea what it would be like but it feels like we have been warmly embraced."
Tess and Louis met while working at Guy Grossi's Florentino in Melbourne - Tess being a junior sommelier and Louis the head chef upstairs.
"Louis was born in Paris and grew in up in Bastille. He started his apprenticeship in Paris when was very young and travelled to America for work before moving to Australia about 15 years ago," Tess said.
"Like many French people, he enjoyed the opportunities Australia."
After they married, they went to France and ran a small restaurant together in Saint-Jean-de-Luz near the border of Spain, before moving back to Victoria before the pandemic hit.
"We had the philosophy of working closely with local producers and artisans," Tess said.
"Louis has been a chef for 20 years and in that time I have seen him evolve to have a quiet confidence in cooking.
"He doesn't feel the need for it to be overly fussy, just a good and solid technique. We get the best produce we can and use amazing French techniques.
That philosophy has continued at Chauncy and resulted in the restaurant being awarded two hats in the Good Food Guide.
"We never went in expecting anything," Tess said. "In our own areas we are passionate and meticulous about what we do.
"We went to Good Food Guide awards and they read through the one hat restaurants and we weren't included. That was fine. Then we found out we got two hats.
"We just put our heads down and worked hard, so it is lovely to be recognised. It feels special us but you never know how others will interpret it."
Reservations for Chauncy can be made through the restaurant's website. Visit chauncy.com.au for more.
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