But they soon realised that being with others around a table was something to look forward to and the importance of the family table was never questioned (even if there were battles and tears as well as many happy times).

So much social learning happens around the table - and from an early age children soon learn that food has power.

Skills in communication, compromise, trial and error, and food literacy all take time to develop. And it takes time and practice to decide if a new flavour or texture is enjoyable or not.

Some of us were taught not to play with our food, but exploring, discovering and playing with our food can be a joyful experience.

We have all observed the delight that children as young as two get from modelling adult behaviour - who doesn't remember a favourite tea-set, or a rolling pin, or a small watering can and garden tools.

I can actually remember making mud pies in the back garden with some friends, a lifelong memory built on play-based learning.

It all becomes more meaningful for young children when it is for real.

Pouring juice or even just water from a teapot, which in the garden might be flavoured with a sprig of mint.

Handing around a plate of cheese muffins that you have helped mix, or cutting out pasta shapes to dry, or choosing your own pizza toppings.

The "handing around" itself an important and popular activity - sharing what is available.

I did a lot of cooking as a young child, and my mother was always happy to show me or allow me to help.

She encouraged me to try a pea from the pod freshly picked from the garden.

I also followed my grandfather around as he dug potatoes and realised for the first time that potatoes have to be dug from the dirt.

I imagine I probably said very little but nonetheless I was absorbing that physical effort was required to produce food.

I was given a patch of the garden and a packet of flower seeds. This first garden was not very successful.

I suspect I needed more encouragement to water regularly. A learning lesson in itself.

I am trying to interest my granddaughter in a bit of cooking.

At five, she certainly can identify herbs and will correctly pick a sprig of rosemary or basil or parsley.

Yesterday she was delighted when I cooked her a flower for lunch (a zucchini flower) and later that morning she peeled the husk from a couple of cape gooseberries and tried them.

They were not as popular as the zucchini flower but she was very intrigued.

Her curiosity is boundless. And "why" is currently her favourite word.

I am delighted we have been able to find the support and resources to expand the Stephanie Alexander Kitchen Garden Program to include the early years. I have now visited about three of our pilot early years centres.

I have been taken by the hand to look at the native bee hotel, to inspect the worm farm and the compost heap, and shared the excitement of parting leaves to locate a bright-red strawberry.

I looked on in astonishment as four-year-olds helped themselves (using regular tongs) from a big bowl of green salad, and others spooned filling into dumpling skins before they were steamed.

There was such excitement and generosity from the children at the lunch table.

In the spirit of sharing with this next generation, I've recently joined the Thrive by Five campaign that brings together a broad-cross section of the Australian community from educators and researchers to economists and parents to call for greater investment in a universal, high-quality early learning system for all children.

The vision is to provide the play-based learning opportunities for children aged zero to five, which are so vital for lifelong intellectual and social development.

It's the kind of play that helps form who we are and I'm so proud my kitchen garden program has and will continue to contribute to this fun, hands-on learning in the early years.

How wonderful it would be for every child to have this sort of experience so early in life.

Stephanie Alexander is an restaurateur and food writer who champions the value of good food through her foundation and kitchen garden program for early childhood, primary and secondary schools.