THE pictured potted meat press with cast-iron handle, shoulder, and steel screw combined with a copper 20cm diameter cylindrical container was sighted at Bendigo’s Sunday market recently.
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Two loose metal discs removable only from the top slipped up and down the 24cm deep appliance and were intended to hold the meat to be pressed between them. Lugs mounted on the top edge enabled the cast-iron shoulder to be held in place.
The piece without maker’s marks probably dates from around the late Victorian early Federation period. I am confident it pre-dates my mother’s cast aluminium 1930s meat press still used during my early childhood. Mother’s specialty I recall was potted lamb’s tongue; however, old "boiler" buck rabbits after pressure cooker processing also became tasty treats.
Potted meat has been a feature of British cuisine for centuries, particularly around Christmas time.
With the approaching festive season, my interpretation of Mrs Beaton’s 1865 recipe for "brawn" may hold some interest: Place a pig’s head after scrubbing into a large kettle, cover with water, add vegetables, herbs and spices tied in cheesecloth and bring to the boil. Simmer for about four hours until the meat falls off the bone; however, remove the tongue after 1 ½ hours.
Lift head onto a platter, strain and reserve liquid in kettle. Remove rind from head, cut meat and tongue into tiny pieces and place into large bowl.
Shake strained brains into bowl. Season with sage, nutmeg, pepper, and toss to mix well. Pack mixture into press, pour kettle water over same, squeeze and remove after 48 hours. Chill before eating.
Have you become a vegetarian after reading this?
fenselau@bigpond.com